The late nineteenth century was a transitional period for stage lighting. Gaslight and limelight had been used for most of the century but carried the risk of fire, as well as unpleasant odors and heat. Electric light, made possible by Thomas Edison’s invention of a practical electric lamp in 1879, offered a solution. First introduced on a Paris stage in 1882, the new lighting gradually replaced gaslight and limelight. While electric light provided a safer alternative, the rudimentary technology had not yet improved the harsh and often unflattering illumination of its predecessors, which exaggerated an aged performers’ facial characteristics.
Montmartre
in the late nineteenth century witnessed the rise of the modern celebrity.
Fueled by the booming entertainment industry and aided by the development of
the publicity poster, performers at dance halls, cafés, and cabarets
became stars. Of all the performers of Montmartre, perhaps the most famous
was Aristide Bruant. The gruff singer and songwriter
performed at the Chat Noir, where he sang declamatory songs of working-class
misfortunes and hurled insults at his increasingly bourgeois audience who relished
his affronts, reveling in the “authentic” working-class
experience. When the Chat Noir moved
to larger quarters in 1885, Bruant took over the lease of the original location
and renamed it the Mirliton (trashy verse). Eventually he became so popular
that he was invited to perform at the Ambassadeurs, a café located
in central Paris. Bruant commissioned Lautrec to create a poster advertising
his appearance at the Ambassadeurs. The artist responded to the invitation
with a monumental five-color lithograph printed on two sheets of
paper. Designing a poster as bold as its subject, Lautrec distilled the figure
of Bruant to his most recognizable features: his signature
hat, red scarf, and black cloak, as well as his imposing posture and defiant
gaze. Bruant was so taken by Lautrec’s design—“Am I that
grand?” he
is said to have remarked—that he went on to commission four additional
posters from the young artist, all variations of the original.
In
addition to Bruant and La Goulue, performers such as Marcelle Lender, Jane
Avril, Yvette Guilbert, Loïe Fuller, May Milton,
and May Belfort were popular subjects for Lautrec and his contemporaries. Lautrec
periodically developed
intense fixations with a single celebrity, whom he would watch obsessively
for a period ranging from a single season to several years. The dancer
Marcelle Lender first captivated the artist’s attention in 1893, when
he began to attend theater regularly, and again two years later, when
she appeared in the farcical operetta “Chilpéric.” Lautrec
attended her “Chilpéric” performances some twenty times,
creating numerous drawings and lithographs. In his painting Marcelle
Lender Dancing the Bolero in “Chilpéric” (1895–1896),
recognized as one of the most significant of his career for its handling of
color
and conveyance of energy, the artist depicts Lender center stage dancing the
bolero. She thrusts her dark-stockinged leg
forward and reveals the bright pink layers of her dress, echoing the black-and
pink flowers of her headdress.
While Lautrec never developed a close relationship with Lender (who remarked, “The frightful man! . . . he indeed loves me. . . . But the painting, you can have it.”), he became close friends with many other performers. Lautrec worked collaboratively with the cabaret singer Yvette Guilbert, producing numerous works in which he caricatured her by exaggerating her lanky figure and facial features, and elongating her trademark black gloves. Of all his celebrity subjects, Lautrec was perhaps closest with Jane Avril, whom he depicted in her public persona as a daring and provocative dancer and as a private, introverted woman.
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